German cheeses have not fared well in Taste Atlas’ most recent assessment of the 100 worst European cheeses. 10 cheeses from the federal republic were blacklisted, with two rated among the 10 worst cheeses of the continent.
Curds from whey like wheat from chaff, Taste Atlas is asking the difficult questions. Is Hessischer Handkäse a taste-bud tantalising traditional treat or a dry puck resembling your heel after a 12-hour walk in the Herzgebirge? The jury is in and the German cheese has been condemned as the latter.
This low-fat, high-protein sour milk cheese is moulded by hand and like parmesan or champagne - but not, because everyone loves those - is protected by EU geographical indication, meaning it may only be produced in Frankfurt Rhine-Main and Rheinhessen.
In these regions, Hessischer Handkäse has pride of place on any menu, even earning itself a spot on the federal state’s official website. The cheese is traditionally served as a starter “mit Musik”, meaning with onions, cumin seeds, oil and vinegar, and eventually sliced onto an appetising slice of grey bread (Graubrot). Eat your heart out parmigiano reggiano.
The ranking revealed a trend, no one wants someone else rubbing their hands all over our cheese before they eat it. Norway’s hand-moulded Gamalost (literally, "old cheese") was condemned as the worst in Europe, followed by a French cheese no less, Bleu du Vercors-Sassenage. That bleu’s not so sacré anymore.
In this year’s ranking, Taste Atlas took no prisoners when it came to German cheeses. No fewer than nine additional German cheeses were spurned among the 100 worst in Europe. Harzer cheese of the Herzgebirge region, which is eerily similar to Hessischer Handkäse, was named the 10th worst on the continent.
Romadur of Bavaria placed in 18th, Holsteiner Tilsiter of Schleswig-Holstein took 33rd, Hirtenkäse of Baden-Württemberg ranked 35th, Edelpilz was no Glückspilz in 38th, Limburger was declared limp in 41st, Butterkäse was banished in 42nd, Altenburger Ziegenkäse let out a final bleat in 83rd and Allgäuer Emmentaler nearly made an escape in 96th.
To read the complete list of Europe's worst cheese head to the Taste Atlas website.
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